Mu Cang Chai, Vietnam

 Notes from the journal:

6/27

  • Caught an hour long city bus to our bus terminal and boarded our daytime sleeper bus (you haven’t backpacked SE Asia until you’ve taken a sleeper bus lol). It was a bit uncomfy because we kept our backpacks in the beds with us (I have trust issues so I don’t let my bag out of my sight haha). We both got top bunks next to the window but the ride was long and curvy, and it was the classic SE Asian bus experience with locals sitting in the aisles etc.
  • Got dropped off in front of our homestay outside of Mu Cang Chai and met the owners. It was called a homestay but was half homestay/half hotel. The place was gorgeous and made of beautiful wood and the owners were a kind family (a French man and a Hmong woman) who showed us around and told us about a hike through the rice fields.
  • We relaxed out back, looking at the stunning view of the beautiful, green rice terraces. This was probably my favorite view in all of Asia!

6/28

  • The homestay gave us an amazing breakfast that included homemade jam and fresh fruits (mangoes, passionfruit, etc.) from their property. I’m still dreaming about these fruits :)
  • Went on a 20 km hike in the rain and mud through the rice terraces and small Hmong villages. We saw lots of animals and critters and then ate a big late lunch in the Mu Cang Chai town before walking an hour back up the road to our homestay to complete the loop. Tyler bought dragonfruit from a stand on the way back and I got some pastries.
  • Did laundry, talked to a traveler from Spain (we were no longer the only ones at the homestay), and arranged our bus pickup time with the homestay hosts
  • Soaked in the view outside before going to bed

6/29

  • Woke up early and ate breakfast at the homestay before being picked up outside by the local bus going to Sapa.


Read if I referred you to this post:

  • I would highly recommend Mu Cang Chai! It’s not quite on the beaten tourist trail yet (very small town and we got lots of curious looks when passing through) so it’s a cool place to go that very few travelers have heard of. It’s relatively easy to get to, and most of all it’s the most gorgeous place in Vietnam to see the rice terraces - much better than Sapa (make sure you go during the right season though).
  • I would recommend staying at the Dong Suoi Hmong homestay, for great food and service, a beautiful house, and a stunning view of the rice terraces. I wish we had stayed an extra day but alas we did not have time.
  • In my personal experience with buses in Vietnam: the departure times when booking online were always incorrect so I would recommend texting the bus company on WhatsApp the day before departure to confirm the departure time. Sometimes the bus left 30 mins-2 hours before it was scheduled, and we would have missed it had we not checked. Locals can help you with this (ex. your homestay or hostel owners) and can often arrange closer pick up and drop off points. The bus company can also send you the license plate of the bus to help you find it more easily.





























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